簡而岩之

資料來源 8a.nu的作者Jans

攀爬大約10-15米的路線，通常你會有略為手臂腫脹的感覺，而這種情形在幾分鐘之後就會消除，這就是所謂力量耐力(Power-Endurance)。而在攀爬更多條這樣的路線之後，手臂充血的感覺就更加強烈，且逐漸不能完全恢復到最初的狀態，這就是所謂耐力(Endurance)。爬抱石的時候，在你感覺到手臂充血之前，就會感到疲倦與酸疼，而這正是力量(Power)逐漸消耗的徵狀。但是如果你休息不夠，則會進入消耗力量耐力的階段。

量的訓練(Volume training)意味著攀爬較簡單的路線，藉著增加血液循環來促使血管增長。It should just feel like an extended warming pump preserving your forearm in perfect condition. 質的訓練(Recruitment training)則是嘗試一兩個動作，促使肌肉纖維的使用發展到更高的比例。這通常可以藉著指力條來訓練。

Doing 10-15 metres routes indoors could initially be called power-endurance training as you normally get a mild pump which only takes some minutes to get rid of. After multiple routes, the pump will be more burning and you never get fully recovered, we are talking endurance training. A boulderering session means power training and instead of a pump you will feel fatigue and sour. If you are not resting enough you will enter the power-endurance stage. Volume training means climbing on easy terrain in order to maximize blood circulation which will build capillarity in your forearms. It should just feel like an extended warming pump preserving your forearm in perfect condition. Recruitment training is doing 1-2 moves in order to learn your muscles to use a higher percentage of the fibers. It is often done on a campus board and it is only for the experienced climber who want to work on a specific gripping strength. Other definitions are possible and the forearm sensation is often different between climbers based on their training experience. In general, if you can not get rid of the burning pump in your forearm, you should stop the session. The next training try to work with a lower load or longer resting periods.